A friend recently asked me to suggest some places in Kyoto, however he only had a day to do it. here is my best shot.
Background: despite what you hear about how quaint Kyoto is, don't be fooled, Kyoto is a large city (1.5mm people). Kyoto's charm is the contrast of the modern with the ancient. Anyone visiting Kyoto for only a single day will have to be very strategic in picking what to see since your choices of sites can be overwhelming.
The following is a sure fire, solid day in Kyoto you will never forget. I designed it to be done all or most by walking, avoids crisscrossing the city and sticks to some of the nicest selections i enjoyed the most.
1) get a map of kyoto and mark all the locations i suggest and it will be very clear how this is organized to maximize your time.
Background: despite what you hear about how quaint Kyoto is, don't be fooled, Kyoto is a large city (1.5mm people). Kyoto's charm is the contrast of the modern with the ancient. Anyone visiting Kyoto for only a single day will have to be very strategic in picking what to see since your choices of sites can be overwhelming.
The following is a sure fire, solid day in Kyoto you will never forget. I designed it to be done all or most by walking, avoids crisscrossing the city and sticks to some of the nicest selections i enjoyed the most.
1) get a map of kyoto and mark all the locations i suggest and it will be very clear how this is organized to maximize your time.
2) arrive in Kyoto station as early as your schedules allow. 8:30am would
work well.
3) take a taxi to Kltashirakawa-dori and Imadegawa-dori, this is the street several blocks east from the start of your walking trip along what is called the "Path of Philosophy". this corner is also the bus stop Ginkaku-michi if that helps. Walk up the hilly street lined with shops and food toward Ginkakuji temple, grab a western breakfast at one of the cafes (i love JP food, but i always start the day on a normal breakfast). continue up the hill to the Ginkakuji Temple. you will cross a tree lined canal on your way, we will be coming back to this canal after your visit to the Ginkakuji Temple.
The Ginkakuji "silver" Temple is the brother of the Kinkakuji "gold" Temple and in my opinion was more interesting, less crowded, just as impressive as the Gold temple and considering you don't have much time, the gold temple is just too far out of the way. the gold temple is literally "off the map" and you could waste a good hour just going and coming back, not to mention the taxi fare both ways.
4) Ginkakuji "silver" Temple (circa 1482): pay your cash, go in and note the sand sculptures, amazing white sand, perfectly groomed. the large sand cones are to reflect moon light horizontally and enhance the temple atmosphere at night. fucking Japanese, they are too cool.
enjoy, take a breath and try to sync with the place. you are here, the hustle part is over, now just take it in... the rest of the day is as you see fit. i suggest you don't worry about missing anything or not having time for any particular thing, that is not how Kyoto should be seen. just let it be what it will be and that in its self is part of the magic of this place. the only place you NEED to be from here on out is at sunset. so just go with the flow til then. spend as long as you want here.
there is a path that goes up into the trees and thru the grounds. take your time, this is one of the nicest temples. the next nicest will be at sunset, more on that later.
as you go up and follow the path listen for the frogs, don't bother looking for them, i could not see a single one, but they are there.
photos, photos, photos
exit when you're sufficiently mellowed.
5) if you're in the mood for a small "off the map" temple take a right as you exit the Ginkakuji and walk thru and under the large stone "torii" (shrine gate). go down the small street and directly in front of you will be a stone stair case. wash your hands at the fountain before ascending. walk up to the top and you will find several small buildings with dozens of lit lanterns and a small shrine with a buddha and a bell. it should be deserted and all to yourselves. throw some change in the offering box, ring the bell twice, clap your hands twice, bow your head and make a prayer to Buddha for who or whatever, safe journey's, health, prosperity, etc. now you can take a pen and leave a pray stick with a message or tie a prayer paper to a tree. now you're getting in the spirit of Kyoto!
there is a "secret" exit that leads back to the street along the side of the building farthest and to your right as you have your back to the Buddha, or you can go back out the way you came.
6) i assume you're capable enough to find your way back to the canal it is only a few blocks. wander the back streets to your right as you exit if you like, they all lead back to the canal. once you find the canal follow it as it heads south to the Honen-in Temple. it is only a 10-15 min walk. you can walk the side streets between the canal and the mountain side or walk the canal, your choice. there will be plenty of time to walk the canal more later on, so feel free to explore on your way to the Honen-in Temple if you like.
7) Honen-in Temple (circa 1680) is free and has a small art gallery, check that out if it is open. the grounds were peaceful and secluded when we were there and it should prove to be a much dif experience than the last temple. more mystery frogs crocking... this temple also has sand sculptures for moon lighting.
as you exit you're taking a left and heading south again . i suggest you walk along the back street you exit on as it leads directly to the next temple, Reikan-ji.
8) Reikan-ji Temple: i suspect your feeling the mood now, if you're not, check yourself, this as good as it gets. well almost, we still have sunset. Reikan-ji have lovely grounds, costs only a few bucks and has a great art collection indoors. the ground here were really photogenic.
9) Anraku-ji is next. a small place and may not be on your map, but it is on the left as you head south from Reikan-ji. with it's wonderful garden it is a perfect place to reflect and relax your feet for a few mins. you remove your shoes, go in and sit on the tami mats while taking in the small but lovely garden.
10) it should be getting close to lunch time. exit Anraku-ji walk back to the canal and hang a left heading south again. find a nice udon shop or whatever have lunch and some tea.
11) now that your back on the canal, we will stick to it's tree covered path for the next 30 mins or so. enjoy the sites. look for the HUGE fish in the canal as you walk south, they are quite playful. continue to walk south to the Eikan-do Temple.
12) Eikan-do Temple (circa 855): this is an Autumn foliage temple but it is too crowded then, so just thank Buddha you're here in summer. big place, amazing grounds. Make sure to take a photo of the backward facing Buddha for me. i missed it when i visited. also walk the cover path to the top of the Pagoda. there is also a small waterfall with grave stones near the back of the adjacent grade school. you can climb up in and around them, but look out for snakes, i almost stepped on one.
i know, i know, your getting tired, but buck up. next is Nanzen-ji and Nanzen-in.
13) Nanzen-ji and Nanzen-in (circa 1291) was the Emperor's retirement villa. most of this is free and it is huge, go in and check out the temples and make sure you make it to the Nanzen-ji Okuno-in, it is up in the woods along the HUGE red stone aqueduct in the back forest.
after going up into the woods to see Nanzen-ji Okuno-in, come back down and now go UNDER the aqueduct, we missed this but they say it is a really great garden and pond. it is called Nanzen-in. on your way out there are some great wide stone paths with temples which makes a perfect background for portraits.
14) Decisions, decisions, decisions... you have a choice. if you want their are 2 more temples or you can go to the crazy shopping mall and get some gifts for the kiddies and maybe yourselves. the shopping mall is huge and with all the eye candy there it may be a welcome contrast. it is up to you. either way, at sunset you have to be at Kodal-ji for the night lighting of the garden.
option 1) continue with the temples. first Konchi-in which is very close to Nanzen-ji (13), then take a short taxi or walk to shoren-in and chion-in. all are heading you south toward our our final destination, Kodal-ji for the night lighting of the garden.
option 2) you will never see all the temples, you have had a VERY good taste of what Kyoto has to offer temple wise and now your going to switch it up. so it is either the Crazy Mall or the Kyoto Handicraft Center for a large selection of Japanese crafts.
both are close so do worry about the travel time or cost of a taxi if you need a break for your feet:
a) The Crazy Mall is Teramachi Shopping Arcade at the Kawaramachi Sta.
b) The Kyoto Handicraft Center is located across the street from the Heian-jingu shrine which you could also see while you're there.
15) Assuming you have your gifts and have had a little dinner (see #16) it should be getting close to sunset. on June 18th the sun sets at 7:13PM in Kyoto. if you arrive at Kodal-ji at 7pm you will have time to catch what was one of the best experiences i had in Kyoto. the lighting of the gardens at dusk. i suggest you walk the lower grounds and check out the rock garden and covered bridge while the light is dying. once dark sets and the sky goes dark blue head up the path to the the shrine atop the hill and then walk down thru the lit up bambo forest. once you come down from the path there is a small tea house where you can get a cup. enjoy.
now head back to the rock garden, it is now a Pink Floyd trippy light show in a very Zen way. we spent 1.5hrs here and did not even realize it. i think we walked the upper path twice it was so lovely. outside the temple and down the public stairs are many shops along a walking street. they may be closed by now so hit them before you enter if you have time to kill before sunset.
16) head to the train or if you want, get an amazing western meal near the Kodal-ji temple at the Grand Orient restaurant. and i mean REALLY REALLY good food. it is in an authentic traditional JP wooden home and they speak perfect English. setting is great and it never ceases to amaze me how the JP can do western food as good, if not better than we do.
if you need to crash for the night the Kyoto Westin is very close, and while not a Grand Hyatt, it is very nice and if you get a Japanese room, you can experience what its like to sleep on the floor for $500 bucks a night! i am serious, you sleep on the floor, albeit amongst a lovely garden out your windows and with all the trimmings, but it was amusing when compared to western ideas of luxury.
ok, that is it. you could do other, equally interesting things, but this would be your best bet for my money. enjoy.
3) take a taxi to Kltashirakawa-dori and Imadegawa-dori, this is the street several blocks east from the start of your walking trip along what is called the "Path of Philosophy". this corner is also the bus stop Ginkaku-michi if that helps. Walk up the hilly street lined with shops and food toward Ginkakuji temple, grab a western breakfast at one of the cafes (i love JP food, but i always start the day on a normal breakfast). continue up the hill to the Ginkakuji Temple. you will cross a tree lined canal on your way, we will be coming back to this canal after your visit to the Ginkakuji Temple.
The Ginkakuji "silver" Temple is the brother of the Kinkakuji "gold" Temple and in my opinion was more interesting, less crowded, just as impressive as the Gold temple and considering you don't have much time, the gold temple is just too far out of the way. the gold temple is literally "off the map" and you could waste a good hour just going and coming back, not to mention the taxi fare both ways.
4) Ginkakuji "silver" Temple (circa 1482): pay your cash, go in and note the sand sculptures, amazing white sand, perfectly groomed. the large sand cones are to reflect moon light horizontally and enhance the temple atmosphere at night. fucking Japanese, they are too cool.
enjoy, take a breath and try to sync with the place. you are here, the hustle part is over, now just take it in... the rest of the day is as you see fit. i suggest you don't worry about missing anything or not having time for any particular thing, that is not how Kyoto should be seen. just let it be what it will be and that in its self is part of the magic of this place. the only place you NEED to be from here on out is at sunset. so just go with the flow til then. spend as long as you want here.
there is a path that goes up into the trees and thru the grounds. take your time, this is one of the nicest temples. the next nicest will be at sunset, more on that later.
as you go up and follow the path listen for the frogs, don't bother looking for them, i could not see a single one, but they are there.
photos, photos, photos
exit when you're sufficiently mellowed.
5) if you're in the mood for a small "off the map" temple take a right as you exit the Ginkakuji and walk thru and under the large stone "torii" (shrine gate). go down the small street and directly in front of you will be a stone stair case. wash your hands at the fountain before ascending. walk up to the top and you will find several small buildings with dozens of lit lanterns and a small shrine with a buddha and a bell. it should be deserted and all to yourselves. throw some change in the offering box, ring the bell twice, clap your hands twice, bow your head and make a prayer to Buddha for who or whatever, safe journey's, health, prosperity, etc. now you can take a pen and leave a pray stick with a message or tie a prayer paper to a tree. now you're getting in the spirit of Kyoto!
there is a "secret" exit that leads back to the street along the side of the building farthest and to your right as you have your back to the Buddha, or you can go back out the way you came.
6) i assume you're capable enough to find your way back to the canal it is only a few blocks. wander the back streets to your right as you exit if you like, they all lead back to the canal. once you find the canal follow it as it heads south to the Honen-in Temple. it is only a 10-15 min walk. you can walk the side streets between the canal and the mountain side or walk the canal, your choice. there will be plenty of time to walk the canal more later on, so feel free to explore on your way to the Honen-in Temple if you like.
7) Honen-in Temple (circa 1680) is free and has a small art gallery, check that out if it is open. the grounds were peaceful and secluded when we were there and it should prove to be a much dif experience than the last temple. more mystery frogs crocking... this temple also has sand sculptures for moon lighting.
as you exit you're taking a left and heading south again . i suggest you walk along the back street you exit on as it leads directly to the next temple, Reikan-ji.
8) Reikan-ji Temple: i suspect your feeling the mood now, if you're not, check yourself, this as good as it gets. well almost, we still have sunset. Reikan-ji have lovely grounds, costs only a few bucks and has a great art collection indoors. the ground here were really photogenic.
9) Anraku-ji is next. a small place and may not be on your map, but it is on the left as you head south from Reikan-ji. with it's wonderful garden it is a perfect place to reflect and relax your feet for a few mins. you remove your shoes, go in and sit on the tami mats while taking in the small but lovely garden.
10) it should be getting close to lunch time. exit Anraku-ji walk back to the canal and hang a left heading south again. find a nice udon shop or whatever have lunch and some tea.
11) now that your back on the canal, we will stick to it's tree covered path for the next 30 mins or so. enjoy the sites. look for the HUGE fish in the canal as you walk south, they are quite playful. continue to walk south to the Eikan-do Temple.
12) Eikan-do Temple (circa 855): this is an Autumn foliage temple but it is too crowded then, so just thank Buddha you're here in summer. big place, amazing grounds. Make sure to take a photo of the backward facing Buddha for me. i missed it when i visited. also walk the cover path to the top of the Pagoda. there is also a small waterfall with grave stones near the back of the adjacent grade school. you can climb up in and around them, but look out for snakes, i almost stepped on one.
i know, i know, your getting tired, but buck up. next is Nanzen-ji and Nanzen-in.
13) Nanzen-ji and Nanzen-in (circa 1291) was the Emperor's retirement villa. most of this is free and it is huge, go in and check out the temples and make sure you make it to the Nanzen-ji Okuno-in, it is up in the woods along the HUGE red stone aqueduct in the back forest.
after going up into the woods to see Nanzen-ji Okuno-in, come back down and now go UNDER the aqueduct, we missed this but they say it is a really great garden and pond. it is called Nanzen-in. on your way out there are some great wide stone paths with temples which makes a perfect background for portraits.
14) Decisions, decisions, decisions... you have a choice. if you want their are 2 more temples or you can go to the crazy shopping mall and get some gifts for the kiddies and maybe yourselves. the shopping mall is huge and with all the eye candy there it may be a welcome contrast. it is up to you. either way, at sunset you have to be at Kodal-ji for the night lighting of the garden.
option 1) continue with the temples. first Konchi-in which is very close to Nanzen-ji (13), then take a short taxi or walk to shoren-in and chion-in. all are heading you south toward our our final destination, Kodal-ji for the night lighting of the garden.
option 2) you will never see all the temples, you have had a VERY good taste of what Kyoto has to offer temple wise and now your going to switch it up. so it is either the Crazy Mall or the Kyoto Handicraft Center for a large selection of Japanese crafts.
both are close so do worry about the travel time or cost of a taxi if you need a break for your feet:
a) The Crazy Mall is Teramachi Shopping Arcade at the Kawaramachi Sta.
b) The Kyoto Handicraft Center is located across the street from the Heian-jingu shrine which you could also see while you're there.
15) Assuming you have your gifts and have had a little dinner (see #16) it should be getting close to sunset. on June 18th the sun sets at 7:13PM in Kyoto. if you arrive at Kodal-ji at 7pm you will have time to catch what was one of the best experiences i had in Kyoto. the lighting of the gardens at dusk. i suggest you walk the lower grounds and check out the rock garden and covered bridge while the light is dying. once dark sets and the sky goes dark blue head up the path to the the shrine atop the hill and then walk down thru the lit up bambo forest. once you come down from the path there is a small tea house where you can get a cup. enjoy.
now head back to the rock garden, it is now a Pink Floyd trippy light show in a very Zen way. we spent 1.5hrs here and did not even realize it. i think we walked the upper path twice it was so lovely. outside the temple and down the public stairs are many shops along a walking street. they may be closed by now so hit them before you enter if you have time to kill before sunset.
16) head to the train or if you want, get an amazing western meal near the Kodal-ji temple at the Grand Orient restaurant. and i mean REALLY REALLY good food. it is in an authentic traditional JP wooden home and they speak perfect English. setting is great and it never ceases to amaze me how the JP can do western food as good, if not better than we do.
if you need to crash for the night the Kyoto Westin is very close, and while not a Grand Hyatt, it is very nice and if you get a Japanese room, you can experience what its like to sleep on the floor for $500 bucks a night! i am serious, you sleep on the floor, albeit amongst a lovely garden out your windows and with all the trimmings, but it was amusing when compared to western ideas of luxury.
ok, that is it. you could do other, equally interesting things, but this would be your best bet for my money. enjoy.
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